Butter is the first novel, of several award-winners by Japanese author, Asako Yuzuki to be translated into English by Polly Barton. After many frustratingly unsuccessful attempts to visit convicted serial killer, Manako Kajii in the Tokyo Detention House, a suggestion from a good friend finally gains Shumei Weekly journalist, Rika Machida, access to this enigmatic woman.

Kajii gained notoriety when, over a period of six months in 2013, three of the wealthy men she found via an online dating service, on whom she lavished attention with gourmet meals, and who handed over large sums of cash, or funded lessons at the exclusive all-women cooking school, Le Salon de Myuko, all died, apparently by suicide or accident.

Kajii was convicted after a misogyny-tinged trial that seemed to ignore alibis and evidence, and two years on, is awaiting retrial. It felt to Rika that Kajii was tried for her appearance (not young, not beautiful, too fat) and her attitude to men, wanting “‘a mature man, with the capacity for both emotional and financial generosity”, and attacking her concept of chastity. “A woman who didn’t hide the fact that she used her sexuality as a weapon was met with such fierce scorn, and even a kind of terror.”

Rika’s clever request for the recipe that Kajii fed her last victim results in conditional approval for a visit: nothing at all about her trial or conviction may be discussed. Instead, Rika comes away with a recommendation for a very simple dish that requires top quality butter, a commodity currently scarce due to the widespread occurrence of mastitis in cows. She’s still hopeful that at a later visit she may be permitted an interview.

Meanwhile, Rika, with “taste buds are like a child’s. I’m perfectly happy with convenience store bento boxes and curry from cheap restaurants” tries the recipe and is hooked. “Soon enough, just as Kajii had said, the melted butter began to surge through the individual grains of rice. It was a taste that could only be described as golden. A shining golden wave, with an astounding depth of flavour and a faint yet full and rounded aroma, wrapped itself around the rice and washed Rika’s body far away.” Eventual further visits net recommendations for other dishes, and eating establishments to try.

Rika wonders if “To make something yourself that you wanted to eat and eat it the way you wanted – was that the very essence of gratification?” But her best friend, Reiko Sayana observes that Rika seems to be in thrall to Kajii: “You don’t try to see anything she hasn’t shown you”, and Rika admits to herself that she has doubts about Kajii’s guilt, although thinking that her victims displayed “the excessive self-pity felt by lonely men” feels a lot like victim-blaming. Was she losing her powers of judgement?

Some of Kajii’s opinions, though, seem valid: “Japanese women are required to be self-denying, hard-working and ascetic, and in the same breath, to be feminine, soft and caring towards men. Everyone finds that an impossible balance to strike, and they struggle desperately as a result.” But Kajii disabuses Rika of the notion they might become friends: “I don’t want friends. I don’t need friends. I’m only interested in having worshippers.’

Reiko is fascinated with her interactions with Kajii, while continuing to express her concerns over Rika’s mental and physical health, which does give her pause, but Rika is unaware of what her best friend is up to behind the scenes. Will Rika get her exclusive interview? Will the true fate of those men be revealed?

Yuzuki’s tale takes several unexpected turns over the twelve months leading up to, and beyond Kajii’s retrial, and examines the status of women in Japan, and the expectations to which they are subject. Her varied cast of support characters includes a childless housewife, a boyfriend with a girl-band fetish, an industrious mother, opinionated colleagues, a well-known older editor who mentors, and a dairy farmer. Not one of the significant characters has a conventional loving childhood and youth: each is carrying emotional baggage, grief or guilt, creating problems in their relationships, be they romantic or filial.

The only thing missing from this intriguing story is a few detailed recipes: as they consume it, readers will be hungry; those familiar with Japanese cuisine won’t be the only ones salivating. An interesting and entertaining read.
This unbiased review is from an uncorrected proof copy provided by NetGalley and Harper Collins Australia/ 4th Estate