'The best book yet written on the contradictions of contemporary Iran ...... it captures like no book in recent memory the ethos of the country, in elegant and precise prose' Los Angeles Times

Hooman Majd, acclaimed journalist and New York-residing grandson of an Ayatollah, has a unique perspective on his Iranian homeland. In this vivid, warm and humorous insider's account, he opens our eyes to an Iran that few people see, meeting opium-smoking clerics, women cab drivers and sartorially challenged presidential officials, among others.

Revealing a country where both t-shirt wearing teenagers and religious martyrs express pride in their Persian origins, that is both deeply religious yet highly cosmopolitan, authoritarian yet reformist, this is the one book you should read to understand Iran and Iranians today.

'Westerners who tend to seek out only Iranians who talk and think like themselves should use this as a guide' Financial Times

'Mr President, if you are serious about negotiating with Iran, you need ...... the best book on contemporary Iranian culture and all of its complexities and contradictions. Don't go to Tehran without it' Washington Monthly, 'What Obama Should Read'