Athens, city of the gods, birthplace of democracy, artistic and cultural centre of the ancient world, is one of Europe's most fascinating and complex cities, steeped in myth and legend. In this indispensable guide John Freely leads the reader on an ingenious and enlightening series of walks to the city's most vibrant and historic areas, from the magnificent Parthenon, centre of Athens for four thousand years, to the winding streets of Plaka, the crumbling ruins of the Agora and the colour and bustle of Monastiraki. This guide, more than any other, reveals how the heart of ancient Athens still beats beneath the living, modern city. "'There is no end to it in this city - wherever we walk we set foot upon history.' Lucius Cicero"